Die Informalisierung der Textil- und Bekleidungserzeugung am historischen und aktuellen osteuropäischen Beispiel
History and today's development of the garment industry include an intensive coexistence between forms of informal and formal labour which both provide the conditions for each other. The establishment of the female ‚supplementary labour‘ as against the male proletarian breadwinner belongs essentially to this process and constitutes a background for ‚normal‘ violations of labour rights in the garment industry. Eastern Europe's garment production still show the pattern of accumulation at the expense of underpaid, partly or fully informal labour and subsistence economy. Present initiatives within the civil society call for codes of conduct and a living wage as instruments to include informal labour in social regulation throughout the subcontracting chain.